Indonesia is like a Piece of Heaven

Relations between Indonesia and Saudi Arabia have been established for a long time. Related to that history, Indonesia even has a kind of "monument". In Arafah, the place of wukuf, there are “Sukarno trees”.

KOMPAS/ILHAM KHOIRI

Muslim pilgrims are performing tawaf around the Kaaba on the second floor of the Grand Mosque, Mecca, Monday (27/6/2022) afternoon local time.

”Indonesia. Bagus (good), bagus ....” An officer at the Grand Mosque, Mecca, Saudi Arabia, greeted those of us who were wearing black vests that read “Indonesia”.

That morning, on Saturday (9/7/2022), the Grand Mosque was packed with pilgrims doing tawaf and sai. Some paths were closed. We, some members of the Indonesian Haj Media Center (MCH), were confused about leaving the mosque so we asked the officers for help.

The officer parted the crowd of pilgrims, then his hand pointed to a small gap in the corner of Mount Shafa which was guarded by security guards. "Tahkruj min dzalika at-thariq, mubasyarah ila dar al-miyah al-rabi' (just get out of the way, go straight to the WC4)," he said.

We hurried down the corridor and arrived at WC4. This is one of the places where appointments are easy to make because there is a big sign: “WC4”. The location is right in the courtyard of the mosque, not far from the Jiyad Terminal.

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A few weeks earlier, when MCH tested an electric scooter for tawaf, the officers were also happy. An officer even told me that he had been to Jakarta, Puncak (Bogor) and Bali. “Your country has many trees, rivers, everything is green. It's like heaven," he said.

Green scenery is indeed a luxury in Saudi Arabia, which tends to be dry, rocky and rarely overgrown with trees. Heaven is often described as a beautiful land with rivers and flowing water.

The impression is reminiscent of the story of the Rector of Al Azhar University, Egypt, Sheikh Mahmud Shaltut, when he visited Indonesia in the 1960s. So amazed by the natural beauty in the country, the Sheikh said, "Indonesia qith'atu min al-jannah ala al-ardh" (Indonesia is a piece of heaven on earth). Of course, that's a mere metaphor.

Your country has many trees, rivers, everything is green. It's like heaven.

The greeting of the officers at the Grand Mosque reflects that Indonesia is widely known in Mecca. This popularity is triggered by the arrival of Indonesian pilgrims each year in the largest number compared to other countries. In 2022, when Haj is opened for 1 million pilgrims, Indonesia received a quota of 100,051 people, half of the average quota before the pandemic.

Indonesian pilgrims have a distinctive appearance: small posture, tan skin and Indonesian language. Because they are often spoken, some Indonesian words are popular in Mecca, such as terima kasih (thank you), bagus (good), jalan (go), sama-sama (you're welcome), beli (buy), murah (inexpensive). Some of the terms are related to buying and selling. It is understandable; our pilgrims are quite fond of shopping.

KOMPAS/ILHAM KHOIRI

Two Indonesian Hajj officers inspect a campsite around a neem (mimba) tree in Arafah, Saudi Arabia, at the end of June 2022. The neem tree originated from the donation of the first Indonesian President Soekarno to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia to reforest the hot Arafah area.

Indonesian stalls

In a number of hotels, many warungs (stalls) are targeting Indonesian pilgrims. The stalls are run by Bangladeshis, Indians or Pakistanis. The goods they sell consist of various typical Indonesian snacks, as well as Arabic souvenirs. Some stalls employ Indonesians.

Near the lobby of the Safwat Albayt Hotel in Mahbas Jin, Mecca, there is Baqalah Ali. This shop is filled with instant noodles, bottled chilies, soy sauce and coffee sachets. There are also bakso (meatballs), stuffed tofu and bakwan (fritters).

“The bakso and bakwan run out. That's the best thing," said Azwah Herdelita (32), a woman from Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara, a shopkeeper. Bakso filled with four pentols (a type of snack) sell for 12 riyals (US$3.20). A plastic bag of bakwan consisting of four pieces sells for 7 riyals.

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In front of the hotel lobby, there are also two shops. One of the store managers, Husein, from Bangladesh, greeted passersby: “Bapak (Father), Ibu (Mother), ayo beli (let's buy). Murah (Inexpensive)!"

The greeting attracted the attention of the pilgrims who were staying at a nearby hotel. They stopped by and shopped just to make up for the homesickness for food delicacies. Tri Wahyo (35) and Munawi (49), for example, were looking for chili paste to eat. "To make it more delicious -- and no need to grind it anymore," said the husband and wife from Bojonegoro, East Java.

Sukarno trees

Relations between Indonesia and Saudi Arabia have been established for a long time. Referring to the book Jaringan Ulama Timur Tengah dan Kepulauan Nusantara Abad XVII & XVIII (Network of Ulema of the Middle East and the Archipelago of the XVII & XVIII centuries) by Azyumardi Azra, Indonesians have visited Mecca since the 15th century. Ashabul Jawiy (friends from the archipelago) came for Haj while studying. This tradition continues with the tradition of the pilgrimage until now. In the past the pilgrims had to go by ship for months on the journey; now, pilgrims fly by plane.

Related to that history, Indonesia even has a kind of "monument". In Arafah, the place of wukuf, there are “Sukarno trees”. Several sources said that the first president of the Republic of Indonesia performed the haj pilgrimage in 1955. Feeling the heat during wukuf, he suggested to King Saud bin Abdulaziz al Saud to green the area. Thousands of seedlings of mimba (neem), a tree that survives the hot weather, were sent. Now, mimba is an important part of reforestation in Arafah.

According to the Director of Foreign Haj Services at the Directorate General of Haj and Umrah at the Religion Ministry, Subhan Cholid, the neem is well cared for, and even those who damage it are fined. Not only in Arafah, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia also reproduces and plants the tree outside of Mecca, such as in Jeddah.

This article was translated by Hyginus Hardoyo.