Didimus had heard from Indonesian traders that Merauke had changed a lot. The traders’ stories made him nostalgic for Merauke, fantasizing about the hometown he had never seen again so that it seemed perfect in his mind
By
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
·5 minutes read
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Didimus Gepse (right) and Ruki Zakayo
“From Sabang to Merauke are a series of islands that combine as one, that is Indonesia,” Didimus “Didi” Gepse sang enthusiastically. The elderly man, who is a member of the Marind tribe that hails from Merauke, has lived in Tais, Papua New Guinea (PNG), for 22 years.
I asked him if he understood the meaning of the song. In Indonesian with a Papuan accent, he replied, "It means Soeharto came from Sabang across through the islands to Merauke."
Didimus was born in 1962, when Papua was still a Dutch colony. He only heard from his father that soldiers from Jakarta were involved in a shootout with Dutch soldiers and that paratroopers had landed in the villages, and that Papua belonged to Indonesia since then. He admitted that he did not know any history that was more complex than that. "Politics is only for people who are smart," he chuckled.
Didimus has led a relatively peaceful life. As a young man, Didimus worked for a Chinese businessman in Kali Maro, Merauke. His job was to catch fish and skin crocodiles. On occasion, he also had to catch the crocodiles.
In 1992, Didimus joined a group of Makassar traders sailing to PNG for several months. Finally, he made shore in Tais, fell in love, got married and settled in the village.
He has never returned to Merauke, even though he has a wife and four children there.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Two of Tais\' children, Papua New Guinea, sit in front of his always-open door.
***
Among Didimus\' children, only one followed him to PNG. Ger, a muscular young man sporting dreadlocks, later came to live with his father in Tais. Just like his father, Ger also fell in love with a Tais girl.
However the girl\'s parents did not agree to the union. For love, Ger absconded with the girl to Bula, the last village in PNG before reaching the Indonesian border. The girl\'s parents were very angry and scolded Didimus.
Didimus and his wife then trudged from Tais to Bula on foot. Arriving at Bula, Didimus shouted at Ger: "Please let the girl go home!"
They took the girl back to Tais by boat while Ger remained in Bula. Didimus delivered the girl to her parents. But, at midnight that day, the girl fled back to Bula and Ger.
Didimus and his wife had to repeat the difficult journey to collect the girl. In the end, the girl\'s parents gave up. It seemed impossible to separate the lovebirds.
***
As Didimus shared his sweet memories of his hometown in Merauke, a village woman arrived to join our conversation.
Ruki Zakayo, a woman of around 40 years old, is often called "Mama Ruki". Because she had been friends with Didimus for a long time, she understood a little Indonesian.
"Mama had a very good life in Merauke, and you see, Papa did not live well here," said Mama Ruki, referring to Didimus\' first wife as “Mama” and Didimus as “Papa”. He only had two sets of clothes due to financial difficulties.
"Papa Didi does not want to go back to Merauke?" I asked.
"I\'ll be moving [back] there, just wait," he replied.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Volleyball is a sport that is widely played by people in Tais, Papua New Guinea.
Didimus first wanted to build a house for his wife in Tais. Then he and Ger would go together to Merauke to reunite with their family there.
Didimus had heard from Indonesian traders that Merauke had changed a lot. The traders’ stories made him nostalgic for Merauke, fantasizing about the hometown he had never seen again so that it seemed perfect in his mind.
Being a proud man, he always told the people of Tais how prosperous his homeland Indonesia was.
“[Hey], Merauke. Merauke has now changed! The Javanese have entered the interior, Papuans are married to Javanese. There is a big road, four trucks can pass. Merauke used to be poor, Indonesia came in to bring change, help the Marind people,” Didimus said.
“There, the president pays attention to us, we have a village where all the houses are made of zinc and cement. People here also want the Indonesian president to come here, pay attention here," he added.
Mama Ruki replied, “PNG is better than Indonesia! Here, we are very independent. Here, we have two full weeks when we are free to play whatever we want. There, they only have one day!”
There, the president pays attention to us, we have a village where all the houses are made of zinc and cement.
I was confused by Mama Ruki\'s words. It took me a long time to realize that what she meant by "independent" was independence day. PNG celebrates its independence on 16 Sept. by holding a nationwide holiday that lasts from one to two weeks.
Papa Didi refused to accept Mama Ruki\'s opinion. “But even if it is only for one day, there are cultural dances. Here, when we want to play kundu drums, the priest comes and forbids us. Even singing is also forbidden. Now we only play volleyball for two weeks. What for?"
Mama Ruki giggled at Papa Didi\'s remarks. “I also want to go to Merauke. If you take me with you," she said, lowering her head, rubbing her bare feet together on the floor of the stilt hut.
