An English teacher at Daru High School asked me to confirm the rumors he had heard, that Indonesian “white people” needed human skulls to build tall buildings and bridges.
By
Agustinus Wibowo
·5 minutes read
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Siswa Daru High School, Daru, Papua Niugini di halaman sekolah mereka
While I was in Daru, Papua New Guinea (PNG), Mekha advised me not to speak Indonesian in public or reveal my Indonesian identity. He advised me to call myself Chinese or Filipino.
Daru was once home to thousands of "West Papua" refugees from the Indonesian side, and many of these refugees were supporters of the Papuan independence movement. Several years ago, the PNG government worked with Indonesia to repatriate almost all of the refugees from Daru. It is said that there was mass crying when the people of Daru let their Melanesian brothers leave.
"People here feel they have Melanesian connections with Papuans across the border because we are wantok [one people]," explained Mekha.
It has to do with local people’s bad impression of Indonesia. Many PNG people think Indonesia is a communist country, full of military violence. Many are afraid because of the religious differences. In short, Indonesia is synonymous with threats.
An English teacher at Daru High School asked me to confirm the rumors he had heard, that Indonesian “white people” needed human skulls to build tall buildings and bridges. Last year, he said, rumors circulated in Daru that many Indonesians had snuck into PNG to kill local people, to take their heads to build houses and bridges in Merauke regency, Papua.
I was in shock. "And you believe it?"
"Everyone was scared. We didn\'t even dare to leave the house for fear of being killed by Indonesians," he said. “In fact, parents here even scare stubborn children from going out at night by saying, \'Watch out, there will be Indonesians!\'”
###
The various negative stories about Indonesia circulating in Daru made me a little hesitant to fulfill the invitation from Mekha and other teachers to speak in front of Grade 11 students at their school. The topic they asked me to discuss is quite sensitive: borders.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Class atmosphere at Daru High School, Daru, Papua New Guinea.
That afternoon, in a large hall filled with about 200 students, I stood alone before them as an Indonesian. First, I drew a map of the island of New Guinea on the blackboard, complete with a straight line in the middle dividing it into two countries. I also drew other Indonesian islands.
“Who, among you, knows what are borders for?” I ask.
Silence.
The teachers are busy motivating the students to talk.
“Don\'t waste this opportunity,” they say. "There is a man from across the border talking about the border."
One male student raised his hand and said, “We don\'t want borders. We want borders to be removed.”
"Why?" I ask.
"Because the border prevents us from getting to know each other."
The student was from Morehead district, in the far west of the Western Province, which borders Merauke. He has also been to Merauke for shopping. As it turned out, quite a number of students at this school came from border areas, so they were not too foreign to Merauke. In fact, they can speak a little Indonesian.
In the southern part of the island, no international borders are open, except for the villagers around the border.
Currently, the 770-kilometer Indonesia-PNG border is only open in the north of the island, namely in Wutung near Jayapura. In the southern part of the island, no international borders are open, except for the villagers around the border.
However, there are also a number of students who do not agree with the opening of the borders. They worry about illegal trade, narcotics, crime and murder.
“Borders,” I said, “should bring benefits to both parties, as well as minimal losses.”
Jamie Namorong, a teacher, retorts, “Our biggest problem is access. From here to Port Moresby it’s very far, but to Indonesia it’s very close. We want a port so that Indonesia can buy tapioca and fish from us. We can also sell pineapple, cassava, snapper, venison. In Merauke, the demand is great, and our goods can help lower prices there.”
The class that was originally quiet is now lively. The students kept raising their hands.
"We want to do business in Jakarta and Jayapura."
“School....” “Hospital....” “Market....”
###
Borders turn out to be more than just barriers that divide people, which force people to live in ignorance and suspicion. Borders are also about economic, security, political and geopolitical interests.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
A sheet of paper containing a number of regulations at Daru High School, Daru, Papua New Guinea.
Walking out of this hall, my head felt heavy. Staggering a little, I walked to the school cafeteria, looking for a drink.
I was so happy to find a row of small-sized Indomilk branded milk boxes in this narrow canteen.
"Indomilk? Indomilk Indonesia?” I enthusiastically asked the canteen keeper.
