In 1936, there were 293 tea plantations in Indonesia, 247 of which were in West Java. Until now, West Java is still the region with the largest tea plantations in Indonesia.
Breakfasts continue to build the city of Bandung in West Java. Now, its toughness is being tested by the pandemic.
Cold still embraced Bandung on Thursday (24/6/2021), even though the clock was almost moving toward 9 a.m. However, the warmth at Purnama Coffee Shop on Jl. Alkateri, not far from the Braga area, had been felt since that morning. One by one online, app-based delivery drivers came and went to pick up customers’ orders from the coffee shop, which was founded by Yong A Thong in 1930.
“This week, I\'ve come here twice. The orders are the same, milk coffee and srikaya [sugar-apple] bread,” said Sunardi, 45, an online motorcycle taxi driver.
At first glance, the traces of the legend of the coffee shop are not too obvious. The shop, which used to be called Chang Chong Se (please try), seems to be tucked away amid a row of curtain and carpet shops. However, the seduction of its milk coffee and srikaya bread always entices customers to eat them before starting the day.
The distinctive taste of the coffee is created from a mixture of robusta and arabica. Meanwhile, srikaya jam is made manually from a recipe passed down from generation to generation.
It could be that this loyalty is also what makes Purnama Coffee Shop survive for a long time as a witness to the development of Bandung.
The shop building has not changed much from the original design. The shape of the wooden chairs and tables is maintained by the manager, A Thong\'s great-grandson, with heart. It could be that this loyalty is also what makes Purnama Coffee Shop survive for a long time as a witness to the development of Bandung.
Purnama Coffee Shop was established during the golden age of Europeans living in the area. After the ups and downs of clearing land to manage their business in the colony, plantation entrepreneurs, known as Preanger planters, began to enjoy the results.
In 1936, there were 293 tea plantations in Indonesia, 247 of which were in West Java. Until now, West Java is still the region with the largest tea plantations in Indonesia.
The development of the city of Bandung at the end of the 19th century was increasingly felt by the presence of Braga, the heart of Parijs van Java. The area in the center of the flower city became the center of Europeans longing for their countries.
The habit of European citizens at that time to eat ontbijt (breakfast) in shops, restaurants and hotels also thrived in the area. The menu varied, ranging from dry bread, sweet bread and butter bread to tompoesjes, ontbijtkoek, booterstaf and bitterballen snacks. Breakfasts were more complete with a drink of milk, tea or coffee.
Sudarsono Katam in Produsen Ontbijt Walanda Bandoeng said that all breakfasts were available because it was not difficult to get the raw materials in Bandung. Milk, for example, continues to be supplied from the northern and southern highlands.
Lembang in the north is a cattle farm that was established by the Ursone brothers from Italy in 1895. The Ursone family started with 30 cows that produced 100 bottles of milk per day.
In the south, there is Pangalengan. There, Friesche Terp NV became a pioneer farm with a large population of Friesian Holstein cattle at around 1930. The area was nicknamed “Friesland in Indie” because of the abundance of cattle.
Bandoengsche Melk Centrale (BMC) was also famous in the Dutch East Indies since its establishment in 1928. Using pasteurization technology, BMC ensured that milk was bacteria-free so it lasted longer. Quoting Bandung Baheula Jeung Kiwari, BMC milk was the main drink offered on the exclusive express train The Vluge Vier, Cirebon-Batavia. BMC still exists until today.
Wheat as an ingredient for making bread was also recorded in Pangalengan in 1923. The land covered 100 hectares.
Still exist
Bread manufacturers have also been around since 1929. One of them is the Het Snoephuis (Sweet House) bakery owned by Ong An Pang. This factory on Jl. Braga still survives under the name Sumber Hidangan.
The place was known as a gathering place for members of Bandoeng Vooruit, a Bandung welfare organization. They discussed various issues about Bandung accompanied by breakfast bread such as bokkepootjes to spongebeschuit.
“Bread at Sumber Hidangan is the best in my opinion. The taste hasn\'t changed for a long time, it\'s still delicious to eat,” said Katam, who is now 76 years old.
Orders must be taken home in line with the rules of the Bandung administration regarding the implementation of proportional large-scale social restrictions.
After existing for a long time as the legendary side of Bandung\'s culinary wealth, the ontbijt guards are now being tested by the pandemic. This month is again a tough time because visitors are prohibited from eating and drinking in restaurants. Orders must be taken home in line with the rules of the Bandung administration regarding the implementation of proportional large-scale social restrictions.
As a result, the management of Purnama Coffee Shop changed its service system. Since Thursday (17/6), take-out and online orders have become a mainstay. It is no problem because
Purnama shop\'s loyalty to maintaining tradition makes customers always miss its dishes.
Etham, 25, a resident of Sekeloa, Bandung, for example, continues to order the Purnama shop menu via app-based motorcycle delivery services. He has been a customer since his father invited him to the shop 12 years ago.
“The breakfast I like most is srikaya bread dipped in hot milk coffee. Bitter, sweet, savory and soft taste is just right," he said.
For him, morning with a cup of coffee and a piece of bread becomes one package. This habit is the start of the day before working from home, especially during the pandemic.