Various culinary flavors from Pangandaran, Jambal Roti to Pindang Gunung
Pangandaran Regency has fish-based culinary delights that are rich in taste and aroma, such as jambal roti and pindang gunung.
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Pangandaran Regency, West Java, has culinary delights made from fish with various flavors, ranging from salty jambal roti to fresh sour mountain pindang. Even though they are different, these special foods are proof of the creativity of residents in processing Pangandaran's natural wealth.
The hot sun is scorching in Ketapang Doyong Field, Pangandaran Village, Pangandaran District, Monday (6/5/2024) afternoon. Residents use the hot weather on the East Coast to dry salted fish, such as jambal roti, which is a fermented fish product.
Ketapang Doyong is one of the production centers of smoked fish in Pangandaran Regency. The scent of salted fish being dried by the locals can already be smelled from afar when approaching the location.
That afternoon, residents in four production areas were seen drying jambal roti fish and other salted fish products. They dried the fish on bamboo racks covered with a woven fabric.
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One of the jambal roti fish production places in Ketapang Doyong is owned by Imasitoh (54). The woman, commonly known as Imas, is currently supervising two of her workers who are cutting up 12 fish covered in salt in a black bowl.
The process of making salted jambal roti fish at Imasitoh's business place uses three main raw ingredients supplied by local fishermen. These three types of fish are manyung, kedukang, and jahan.
As for the coarse salt used in the fish fermentation process, Imas specifically sources it from Cirebon, Indramayu, and Tuban in East Java. The amount of salt used can reach 25 kilograms per week.
"These twelve fish have been fermented for two nights," said Imas while showing a bowl of salted manyung fish. The fish is then cleaned, split, and dried. The drying process can take up to a day or more, depending on the sun conditions.
Next, the jambal roti fish is stored in a refrigerator before being sold to customers or souvenir shops lined up in the East and West Pangandaran Beach. Jambal roti fish is divided into ordinary or low-quality and super categories. The difference lies in the processing and size.
Super size
The size of jambal roti is larger. Its preparation involves directly cutting the fish's head and removing the dirt inside. "The usual jambal roti is small, so it's difficult to take the dirt out. Its head is not cut, it's directly split," said the mother of three children.
The price of super tiger prawns is also more expensive, can be more than IDR 120,000 per kilogram. Meanwhile, the ordinary category ranges from IDR 90,000 per kg. Although different, this food has a distinctive taste. Even before it is cooked, the chewy meat already tastes salty.
When fried, the meat expands like bread dough and becomes crispy when consumed. That's why this fish is called jambal bread. To prevent the fishy smell, it is sprinkled with coffee in its packaging. The durability of this fish can last up to a month before being processed. "It can last up to a year if not eaten," Imas said with a smile.
The production of super or regular jambal roti fish made by Imas' business is always bought by 15 traders around the Pangandaran Beach tourist area. In a week, Imas can sell 25 kilograms up to 50 kilograms of jambal roti fish.
Consumers of Imas's jambal roti products are not only from the West Java region. Her jambal roti fish products are also shipped to Kalimantan Island and even to neighboring country Malaysia. "I hope that jambal roti will continue to be preserved by the local younger generation as it has become a symbol of culinary culture from Pangandaran," she said.
Apart from "jambal roti," there are also smaller-sized salted fish. These products come from chicken feather fish, tigawaja, and layur. The process is the same as "jambal roti," which is split, salted, and preserved for a night or more. These fish are usually sold by roaming merchants around the coast.
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Sumino (59), a salted fish vendor, said that fish as ingredients are easier to obtain compared to jambal roti. "If it's small salted fish, it's from Pangandaran. If it's jambal roti, usually from Indramayu (West Java), Cilacap, and Tegal (Central Java)," he said.
According to him, there are many large ships in the area that supply raw materials to be processed into jambal roti in Pangandaran. However, the arrival time of the fish is uncertain. That is why he only makes 20-30 kg of jambal roti over a period of several months.
“Small fish, mah, are always there. After last month of fasting, I accommodated 12 drums (fish). After Eid it immediately runs out because many people are on holiday. "I made 7 quintals of fish, they finished (sold)," said the father of two children. The price of small salted fish ranges from IDR 20,000-IDR 40,000 per kg.
According to Sumino, the signature dried salted fish of Pangandaran is different from products from other coastal areas. "Over there, they use mostly salt, so the fish meat is hard. But here, it's not too salty. People say that if you buy fish in Pangandaran, the saltiness is delicious," he said.
Pindang mountain
Another local cuisine that utilizes the natural resources of Pangandaran is pindang gunung. This dish, similar to fish soup, combines the mountains and the sea. Its main ingredient is fish from the sea, such as mangmung and kakap, while the spices are sourced from the mountains.
The ingredients used are such as kedondong leaves, honje, and turmeric. While in other regions, pindang fish is usually prepared in a dry style, the one made here is soupy and yellow in color. Its main characteristic is the use of kecombrang and ginger, which gives a fresh and warm sensation. Belimbing wuluh (sour starfruit) also contributes to its sour taste.
There is no exact record of when the soupy food first emerged. However, according to cultural observer Edi Rusmiadi from Pangandaran, pindang gunung started to become popular in the 1970s.
"In the past, Pangandaran's beach was empty. Then, people from the mountains came. Due to their background as farmers, when they got fish on the coast, they cooked it with spices from the mountains," said Edi, whose ancestors came from mountainous areas in Pangandaran, such as Parigi and Cijulang.
Mountain pindang, which is the result of the community's creativity in utilizing natural resources, has become a signature dish. This cuisine is not only served at home, but also in some restaurants. In Pangandaran, visitors can choose to enjoy either mountain pindang fish soup or salted jambal roti fish, it's up to them.
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