AI-Created Photomodels, Towards Inclusive Mode or Vice Versa
AI technology is entering the world of fashion. Will AI make the industry more inclusive?
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A model is showing fashion for the fall/winter 2024-2025 season in Paris, France, Saturday (2/3/2024).
Alexsandrah, a model from London, England, does not have a twin in real life. However, in her professional life now, she has one. Her twin is not formed from flesh and blood, but rather composed of pixels.
Alexsandrah claims that she and her twin are truly identical, right down to the small details. Her twin has even started to perform her duties, replacing Alexsandrah in some photoshoot sessions. Nevertheless, Alexsandrah is still receiving compensation and credit when her alter ego appears in various products or just in photoshoot schedules.
This is one of the things that has emerged from technological advances, especially artificial intelligence. Avatarshumans, which previously were still very rigid in shape, tended to be like dolls, now have almost human-like shapes.
Also read: Days of Living with AI
With a level of perfection approaching 100 percent, supporters of the emergence of "alter ego models" such as Alexsandrah's twins assess that the world of fashion (fashion a>) be very open, showing diversity of all shapes and sizes. So far, the world of fashion has been considered to be very exclusive to models who have a certain body size and skin color, especially white skin.
A photo model named Alexsandrah posed with her "twin sibling" at a location in London on Friday (29/03/2024). The twin sibling is an avatar created from an artificial intelligence-based computer program.
Now, with technology, that will change and make consumers able to decide what suits them better. Avatars will in turn help companies save money and create opportunities for people who want to work in the world of fashion and technology.
However, some critics have a different view. They worry that the existence of digital models will take away not only the lives of models but also the supporting ecosystem of this industry. Makeup artists, hairdressers, and even photographers are at risk of losing their livelihoods.
We do not see this (AI) trial as a means to advance diversity or to replace actual actions that must be taken to expand the goals of diversity, equality, and inclusion.
Sara Ziff, a former model and founder of the Model Alliance, said that the industry she once worked in is not fully open to diversity. "Opportunities for people of color are still very limited," she said.
She worries that the use of artificial intelligence technology will distort racial representation and further marginalize models of color.
Pros and cons
The use of models generated by artificial intelligence has begun to spread. In March 2023, legendary denim manufacturers, Levi Strauss & Co. announced it was starting to test AI-generated models for some of its products. The model was created by Lalaland.ai, an artificial intelligence technology startup based in Thailand. According to both companies, the use of this technology is to expand body types and demographic groups that are not represented in their product range.
Also read: Artificial Intelligence: Tool or Threat?
Instead of receiving support, the plan garnered negative reactions from the public. Despite this, Levi's remains firm. At the same time, the company is still conducting live photoshoots, using human models, and remains committed to working with diverse models.
"We do not see this (AI) trial as a means to advance diversity or to replace actual actions that need to be taken to broaden the goals of diversity, equality, and inclusion. This action should not be portrayed as such," Levi's said in its statement.
A number of models demonstrate clothing designed by Isha Dhaingra in Mumbai, India, Friday (15/3/2024).
Last month the company said it had no plans to expand its AI program. Kohl's, Target, Shein and several retail companies declined to comment. Temu, a fashion market company from China, also declined to comment.
Spokespersons from Nieman Marcus, H&M, Walmart, and Macy's stated that their companies do not use AI models. Nonetheless, Walmart mentioned that there is potential for their supplier companies to have different policies regarding this matter.
Also read: Turn to Machines When You Can't Talk to Humans
The founder of Lalaland, Michael Musandu, said that "digital replica models" were created not to replace, but to complement. Musandu stated that one of the reasons for creating models based on artificial intelligence was his experience of never finding a clothing model similar to himself.
"One model does not represent everyone who shops or buys a product. As a person of color, I have experienced this painfully," she said.
Musandu stated that with the model created by AI, consumers will see themselves wearing 9-12 products with different filter sizes. This will enrich the shopping experience for potential buyers and help reduce product returns and other waste.
Michael Musandu, CEO and co-founder of artificial intelligence company Lalaland.ai, Friday (8/3/2024). Musandu and his company create digital model replicas (avatars) for the fashion industry.
Apart from that, he said AI technology also creates new jobs because humans will control the use of the algorithm. If top fashion companies were serious about this effort, they would continue to defend their use of avatars ofskin.
For Alexsandrah, her digital replica has made her stand out in the fashion industry. He even defended the existence of Shudu, a replica of a black digital model created by his friend, Cameron Wilson, a former fashion photographer and now CEO of The Digitals, a British digital modeling agency.
When Shudu first appeared, Wilson was accused of digitally appropriating black culture. However, now Shudu has been accepted by many parties. Louis Vuitton, a leading French fashion company, and BMW, a German automotive company, have used it. Shudu and Alexsandrah have appeared on the cover of Vogue Australia magazine.
A female model shows clothes designed by Subai at China Fashion Week in Beijing, Tuesday (26/3/2024).
Alexsandrah feels "very proud" of her work with The Digitals. "This is something that even when we are no longer here, future generations can look back and say, 'These are the pioneers,'" she said.
Not everyone agrees with Alexsandrah. Yve Edmond, a model, said that the use of AI in fashion modeling was seen as doing more harm than good. Edmond worries that modeling agencies and companies will take advantage of models, using their photos to train AI systems without their consent or compensation.
Also read: 28 Countries Agree to "Regulate" Artificial Intelligence
Edmond has experienced it before. During a photo shoot, a client asked him to perform various movements, from squatting to walking, claiming that it was for research purposes. He refused because he came to the location to try on clothing that would be marketed, not to create an avatar.
"This is a violation. That's really disappointing," he said.
Ziff said, for workers in the fashion industry, the current situation is like the "wild wild west", an environment where the rules only apply to people who have the tools and power. The law only favors powerful groups.
Models walk on the catwalk showing Hermes bags for the 2024/2025 fall and winter collection in Paris, France, Saturday (2/3/2024).
Ziff and its agency, the Model Alliance, are pushing for regulations that would require fashion companies to obtain written consent from models to create or use avatars. The rules also determine the amount and duration of compensation and prohibit manipulation of digital replicas without permission. The State of New York, United States, was the first test of such a regulatory process.
Alexsandrah agrees with such rules. She firmly believes that AI opens up many opportunities for models of color in the fashion industry. He also tells his clients that he has an AI replica. If a prospective client asks about her digital twin, Alexsandrah will invite Wilson to speak on her behalf. Wilson ensured any compensation forAlexsandrah's avatar was comparable to what would have been provided in person.
On the other hand, Edmond also adheres to his belief regarding the level of danger of this AI replica. He believes, with billions of people on Earth, the world of fashion can find a suitable person for every product that will be made and marketed.
"We have an amazing Earth that we live in. You have individuals with various skin colors, heights, and sizes. Why not find that person and give them compensation?" (AP)
