Felix Soba Meo, Preserving Ngada Coffee Heritage
More than a farmer, patron and processor of Ngada coffee, Felix Soba Meo (49) is trying to maintain the Ngada coffee ecosystem which is increasingly being eroded due to the conversion of coffee lands.
Felix Soba Meo
The shrinking of the coffee-estate area does not prevent Felix Soba Meo, 48, from cultivating organic Arabica coffee in Ngada regency, East Nusa Tenggara (NTT). Along with Nola Wonga farmers’ group, he preserves the ancestral heritage of fragrant Arabica coffee.
At present, the existence of organic Arabica coffee in Ngada is under threat. The coffee-plantation area has shrunk from 8,000 hectares to less than 6,000 ha over the last five years. It is feared the coffee that made the Flores variety, now going global, famous, will go extinct.
A number of coffee farmers converted their plants into horticultural crops. Short-term plants like mustard greens, cabbage, carrots and cucumbers are considered more profitable. Some other farmers also grow red ginger. In one year, this plant can be harvested three times and produce multiple profits due to high market demand.
“I feel concerned about this situation. It’s regrettable the coffee-estate areas are shrinking. The coffee areas should be expanding as vast vacant land can still be found in Ngada. As a coffee farmer, I have enjoyed coffee since childhood with my parents. I feel called upon to preserve this organic Arabica coffee,” said Felix, when contacted in Bajawa, Ngada, on Sunday (19/2/2023).
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In 2014, he formed Nola Wonga coffee farmers’ group in Wolowae hamlet, Wawowae village, Bajawa. The group, formed with 25 member families, is expected to promote the superior quality of organic Arabica coffee from Ngada. They manage 18 ha of coffee plantations, including 2 ha inherited by Felix from his parents.
In the group, Felix plays the role of a patron. He fosters not only farmers in Nola Wonga, but also other groups of coffee farmers. “I teach them how to fertilize, prune plants and observe their leaves, flowers and keep observing as they bear fruits, how to pluck fruits and maintain protective trees. Sometimes I make spot checks to monitor farmer groups’ plantations. If any problem arises, I give them some input,” said Felix.
He teaches coffee farmers in order to continue growing coffee. Horticultural plants can be grown as catch-crops; although, in the shade of coffee, the plants can grow if they are fertilized and get some sunlight. Coffee plantations should not be replaced by other crops.
Women from the "Nola Wonga" farmer group, Ngada sort the coffee cherries.
To ensure the sustainability of coffee, Felix distributes 27,000 coffee seedlings for free to several farmers’ groups he fosters. He hopes the coffee seedlings can expand the existing coffee area or replace coffee plants that are more than 40 years old.
Additionally, in order to provide financial support to group members, he has set up a credit savings business. He personally invested capital worth Rp 45 million (US$2,962), and every member was required to participate by contributing capital for the credit savings business totaling Rp 200,000 per family. In the course of the business, Felix increased business capital by Rp 100 million. Today, the interest from the credit savings business amounts to almost Rp 10 million.
“This is not a cooperative. Any group member in need of cash can borrow the money. We fear that they may be entangled in the preharvest purchase system of coffee middlemen coming from other regions. Through this credit savings business, they can be assisted when they need money,” said Felix.
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Felix also provides support for coffee farmers by distributing plastics used to dry coffee in the sun by means of solar-dryer domes. In this way, the coffee dries quickly, free from dust or other impurities. Felix, too, makes available hullers to remove coffee skins and racks for drying in the sun. Several practical instructions are given to farmers to maintain coffee quality. All coffee farmers should have the same understanding to keep up consumer confidence by following the coffee-processing procedure taught by Felix.
For coffee roasting, Felix manages it on his own on weekends. “Not everyone can do it. Some are able to, but they do it halfway, hurriedly and carelessly. They don’t notice the color and texture of the coffee desired. The final process is the attempt to take care of, maintain and build the continued ties between sellers and buyers,” he said.
The final goal is to preserve the fragrant aroma of organic Arabica coffee of Ngada, which has been recognized by international coffee lovers like those of the United States, Japan and Germany since 2012. This coffee has also won various coffee festivals and competitions due to its typical flavor.
A coffee farmer from Wolowio Village, Bajawa District, Ngada Regency is harvesting coffee on her farm in the village, Monday (11/7/2022).
Becoming an entrepreneur
Ngada regency is familiar to coffee lovers thanks to its organic Arabica coffee. Ngada and Manggarai coffee is often called Flores coffee. This coffee seems to represent coffee plantations in nine regencies in Flores. Ngada coffee grows at the altitude of 1,700 meters, below the valley of Mount Inerie (2,245 m). This coffee was included in the geographical indication protection in 2011.
More than a farmer, patron and processor of coffee, Felix has also been directly involved as a coffee entrepreneur since 2012. His entrepreneurial choice is meant to ensure farmers’ coffee products can be bought at a price favorable to farmers. “It should not happen that people from other regions fool farmers into accepting a low price, let alone buying preharvest coffee,” he pointed out.
Coffee is bought in red cherries at Rp 14,000 per kilogram and in wet parchment form at Rp 26,000 per liter. However, over the last three years, he has chosen to buy green beans at Rp 90,000-Rp 100,000 per kg. Green beans are adjusted to the orders of consumers. This coffee comes from private plantations, members of the group fostered by Feli and members of other groups in three coffee-producing districts: Bajawa, Golewa and West Golewa, NTT. Every year, he collects up to 80 tonnes of green beans.
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He has five regular customers: from Medan, North Sumatra (two customers); Jakarta (two); and Samarinda, East Kalimantan (one). The consumers can order up to over a dozen tons in a year. In addition, there are consumers ordering on a non-routine basis. There are also foreign consumers in Japan and China. Each consumer orders hundreds of kilograms of green beans.
He said since 6 January 2023 coffee stocks had run out. “A number of orders cannot be served. The last stocks were taken by consumers from Japan on 6 January 2023. Organic Arabic coffee is much in demand,” said Felix.
The demand for Ngada Arabica coffee keeps coming as coffee plants are converted into horticultural crops and ginger plants. In fact, the profits from coffee cultivation are very high, despite its having only one harvest in a year.
A number of orders cannot be served. The last stocks were taken by consumers from Japan on 6 January 2023. Organic Arabic coffee is much in demand.
To convince coffee farmers, Felix has opened a coffee café in Bajawa. There, he also sells coffee products of Felix Soba Meo Menjaga Warisan Kopi Ngada (Felix Preserves Ngada Coffee Heritage). This is meant to convince the public that Ngada coffee can support economic improvement. The youths and seniors hanging out at the café are persuaded to maintain the ecosystem of Ngada coffee.
“Don’t be lured into growing horticultural plants. These plants can be found everywhere, but organic Arabica coffee with its deep flavor is very rare. Ngada still has vast land; no reason why we have to sacrifice the coffee that has brought fame to Ngada nationally and internationally,” he added.
Felix Soba Meo
Born: Bajawa, 24 August 1974
Wife: Maria Consita Pede
Children: Three
Education: Bachelor’s degree in Civil Engineering, Yogyakarta Institute of Technology (2014)
This article was translated by Aris Prawira.
