Pindang Gunung, Fish Preparation for Life

KOMPAS/AGUS SUSANTO

Encih Sarsih

Encih Sarsih, 57, never expected her pindang gunung fish specialty to inspire many people. More than just a typical culinary delight, the fish soup unique to Pangandaran has become a fresh dish to rise from all kinds of trouble.

The kitchen measuring 3 meters by 2 meters has ceramic floors with concrete walls painted yellow. A gas stove has replaced its firewood stove. Decades ago, it had earth floors and wooden walls.

Many things remain unchanged. Encih, the kitchen owner, retains her passion for cooking. Assisted by Isem, 62, who has helped her for decades, she prepares pindang gunung fish soup with a blend of red onions, garlic, small chilies, citronella grass, bay leaves and torch ginger.

“I only use three fish species, which are trevally, perch and pomfret because they have thick flesh and don’t break up easily,” she said.

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Half an hour later, the pindang gunung dish was ready to be served. It tastes salty, sweet, spicy and sour. There is also the fresh flavor of torch ginger. “The recipe of pindang gunung was handed down to me by my mother in this kitchen,” said Encih.

In West Java, pindang gunung is identical to Pangandaran cooking. The word pindang refers to the process of cooking fish in soup. Ideally, the dish uses salt-water fish.

Pindang gunung is said to have initially been popular in hilly areas but it has now become a favorite for coastal people.

The word gunung is derived from the use of spices from a mountain village. Pangandaran has two geographic features. There are tens of kilometers of coastal expanse as well as many mountainous areas. Pindang gunung is said to have initially been popular in hilly areas but it has now become a favorite for coastal people.

Although apparently simple, the skill in preparing fish to become a specialty is rare. Encih is a reliable chef. Her cooking is recognized by domestic and foreign circles. “I feel grateful that a lot of people savor pindang gunung,” she said.

Coincidence

Encih has popularized pindang gunung only by chance. It began when in 2008 she joined a local working group (LWG) for the restoration of Pangandaran, following the tsunami two years earlier. As a survivor of the disaster, she realized that ravaged Pangandaran needed the support of various parties. “I’ve been fond of joining organizations since my teenage years,” said Encih.

In the LWG, she was at first only providing social and economic guidance involving small businesses and mangrove planting. Her network

broadened. She was connected with activists of micro, small and medium enterprises, tourism and the regional administration.

“Then I got acquainted with Pak Eri, who at the time was Manager of Hotel Pantai Indah Timur in Pangandaran. With his recommendation, my pindang gunung became known by many people,” she revealed.

KOMPAS/AGUS SUSANTO

Encih Sarsih

Pak Eri asked her to make a portion of her pindang gunung dish with red perch. The dish was taken to Hotel Pantai Indah Timur. Unexpectedly, Encih was already awaited by journalists. Her pindang gunung dish turned out to be a subject of coverage to prop up Pangandaran’s reawakening.

“Several days later, I was given their magazine. Its cover displayed a large photo of my pindang gunung,” she said.

There was a note that one participant did not consume fish, but it failed to apply when Encih’s pindang gunung was served.

Since then, in various national and international programs, she has received requests to cook pindang gunung. The one that impressed her the most was when she got an order to serve a foreign delegation invited by a leading bank for the restoration of investment in Pangandaran. There was a note that one participant did not consume fish, but it failed to apply when Encih’s pindang gunung was served.

“From disliking fish, he relished the dish with several more servings. He said it was the most delicious soup in his life. The broth was fresh and rich in flavor,” she said.

Her pindang gunung was also shown at exhibitions to promote Pangandaran in different regions in Indonesia. Besides cities and regencies in West Java, she was invited to Bali to cook pindang gunung.

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Encih Sarsih

“I’m happy to be able to tour various regions. I can also share my pindang gunung cooking skill,” she pointed out.

In 2018, she was appointed as a guide for the women of the Family Welfare Movement (PKK) from 10 districts in preparing 2,018 portions of pindang gunung at the Pindang Gunung Festival. It was organized by the non-campus study program of Padjadjaran University in Pangandaran. The thousands of dishes were listed as a record in the Indonesian Records Museum for the largest number of pindang gunung dishes.

Encih sees pindang gunung as a means of promoting disaster mitigation to minimize the tsunami’s impact. Encih often serves pindang gunung to be consumed together with people helping her plant thousands of mangroves.

Encih takes part in mangrove planting in the zone previously devastated by the tsunami. Now the area is shady. “Pindang gunung imparts warmth to our togetherness,” she said.

For her, her dedication to education is as important as preserving pindang gunung for the future of Pangandaran.

So far, Encih has not yet opened a restaurant although many people have urged her. She humbly said she wasn’t yet quite confident and was still preoccupied with her job as principal of State Elementary School 6 Pangandaran. For her, her dedication to education is as important as preserving pindang gunung for the future of Pangandaran.

However, she does not rule out the possibility of opening a special pindang gunung culinary café. She is aware that this dish is less popular. It is only one item in the menu of roasted fish in Pangandaran. A special restaurant can make pindang gunung even trendier.

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Encih Sarsih

“I’m retiring within three years. Thereafter, my children and I may open a special pindang gunung eatery,” she added.

Encih’s promise is worth waiting for. Pindang gunung is too valuable to sink beneath the various kinds of roasted fish in Pangandaran.

Encih Sarsih

Born: Ciamis, 11 January 1965

Education: Master’s degree in Educational Management, Galuh University (2015 graduate)

Husband: Rasyid Arimartian (deceased)

Children:

- Fahmi Fasola, 27

- Fauzan Aji, 25

- Rima Srihatami, 21

(This article was translated by Aris Prawira)