Religious Tolerance in the “Land of Nutmeg”

KOMPAS/HERU SRI KUMORO

Al Yassin Mosque in Patimburak Village, Kokas District, Fakfak Regency, West Papua, Saturday (19/6/2021). This mosque was built by King Pertuanan Wertuar in 1870. Its architecture combines the shape of a mosque and a church.

Since a long time ago, the people of Fakfak have lived in harmony although they have different religions. Coastal communities generally embrace Islam, while residents in the highlands are Protestant or Catholic.

The loud sound of the wooden boat with an outboard engine that we were on broke the atmosphere of the early morning in the waters of Kokas, Fakfak regency, West Papua. The boat started to slow down when it docked at a small pier in Patimbrak village.

The children were running around warmly. The old green mosque building was immediately visible as soon as we stepped on the village road.

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The mosque named Al Yassin, known as the Old Mosque of Patimburak, is one of the cultural heritage sites in the nutmeg-producing district. This mosque keeps the history of the spread of Islam in Papua. Built more than 150 years ago, it is the oldest mosque in Fakfak as well as in West Papua.

The architecture of the mosque, which was built by King Pertuanan Wertuar in 1870 is quite unique because it is a combination of mosque and church forms. “This means that religious communities in Fakfak cannot be separated. It is hoped that the three religions, namely Islam, Christianity and Catholicism, which characterize the mosque will always live in harmony," said Moi Kuda, a grandson of King Pertuanan Wertuar at the Patimburak Mosque in mid-June 2021.

Tolerance symbol

The structure of the Patimbrak Old Mosque is also a symbol of tolerance. The building of the mosque looks like a dome that resembles the roof of churches in Europe. The shape of the ventilation and building pillars also looks like those found in a colonial building. The three doors on the north, south, and east sides of the mosque symbolize the existence of three religions in Fakfak.

KOMPAS/HERU SRI KUMORO

The aerial photo of Patimburak Village, Kokas District, Fakfak Regency, West Papua, Saturday (19/6/2021).

“These three doors lead to a single point for prostrating. This illustrates that basically we are brothers and pray in the same direction," said Moi.

The solidarity between the mountain and coastal communities is not only shown in the shape of the mosque building. The process of building a mosque there also illustrates unity because the construction of the mosque involved the followers of other religions.

Local people who embrace Islam, Christianity and Catholicism had an equal share in the construction of the place of worship. When the Patimbrak Old Mosque, was built, the people from the mountain came down to the coast to help their Muslim brothers. They brought garden produce, such as taro, bananas and vegetables for the residents who took part in the construction process. The mountain people also helped find wood and build the foundation for the construction of the mosque.

The tolerance is still maintained today. Not only in Patimburak, the construction of houses of worship in Fakfak, be it churches or mosques, also involves people from different religions.

The father actively raised the money and led the residents to work together during the construction of the mosque.

Mercy Kabes (42), a nutmeg farmer in Wurkendik village, West Fakfak district, revealed that his father, Philipus Kabes, who is a Christian, was chosen to be the head of the mosque construction in Kapartutin village, Fakfak. The father actively raised the money and led the residents to work together during the construction of the mosque.

On the other hand, when the people in Kapartutin village needed to build a church, the Muslim community also contributed funds and labor. The tradition of raising money to help those who are in need is called tombor mag (put treasure).

Harmony in Fakfak is shown in everyday life. The society blends without barriers of difference. This fosters mutual understanding and respect.

Mercy said some of his siblings were Muslim. During Idul Fitri, he used to visit his Muslim brothers in the coastal areas to keep in touch. “I went to the coast to shake hands. It is a must, if not, there will be a bad feeling because we are family," said Mercy.

Moi said the tradition of celebrating religious holidays together still existed. Marriage between people of different religions is common. They are still brothers even though there are family members who have different religions.

“During Christmas I went to the mountains to celebrate Christmas. During Idul Fitri brothers from the mountains came down to meet us,” said Moi.

Naturally

In Fakfak, tolerance and inter-religious harmony occur naturally. No one is forcing someone to embrace a certain religion. If someone changes religion or marries someone of a different religion, there is no resistance from the society and family.

“In the past, before there was religion, people worshiped big mountains, big rocks and big lakes. It is not the mountain that has to be worshiped, but the Creator who made the mountain," said King Pertuanan Wertuar Musa NP Heremba.

According to Musa, fellow human beings should respect and appreciate each other. With this philosophy, no conflicts would occur because of religious issues. If there is a dispute, everything can be resolved amicably.

Kompas/Heru Sri Kumoro (KUM)

Bartering or exchanging goods between residents at the Mambunibuni Market in the Kokas District, Fakfak Regency, West Papua, Saturday (19/6/2021).

The high spirit of tolerance in Fakfak cannot be separated from the philosophy of life adopted by the community through the main components of people's lives, namely custom, religion and government. People believe this also symbolizes Islam, Catholicism and Protestantism. This concept later became the basis for the brotherhood of the Fakfak community.

According to Fakfak Regent Untung Tamsil, inter-religious harmony in Fakfak is a valuable asset that must be maintained. “Diversity in Fakfak is a miniature of Indonesia. We believe we are one family, one heart,” said Untung.

(This article was translated by Hendarsyah Tarmizi)