Savory With A Bad Aftertaste When Eating Sago Caterpillars
While on assignment reporting on the Manawari Sago Forest in Sima village, Nabire regency, Papua, we were curious to try eating the sago caterpillars that are commonly consumed by the indigenous people.
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Residents chop sago in the Manawari Sago Forest, Sima village, Nabire regency, Papua province, Monday (26/4/2021). The Manawari Sago Forest is the remaining forest in Kampung Sima because other forests have turned into oil palm plantations.
Famous novelist from the United States, Jonathan Safran Noer, once said that food is not something rational, but a culture and habits that shape identity.
This phrase seems appropriate to describe the Papuan people. They consume sago as the main food when the majority of Indonesian people cannot be separated from rice.
This uniqueness is what the Kompas team found when they visited Sima village, Yaur district, Nabire, Papua, in a series of reporting on the Papua Land Expedition. The team consisted of three journalists, namely Harry Susilo, Fabio Lopes and I, as well as photographer Bahana Patria Gupta and videographer Ditto Permadi.
In Sima village, which is located in the Cendrawasih Bay area, all the residents are able to survive thanks to food from the sago forest.
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In Sima village, which is located in the Cendrawasih Bay area, all the residents are able to survive thanks to food from the sago forest. There were a myriad of questions that then plagued my mind. How to live only from the sago forest? What can be eaten? And why are people so dependent on sago for a living?
That question got answered Monday afternoon (26/4/2021). Under the scorching sun, the head of Village Administration Affairs of Kampung Sima, Yulius Awujani (56), took us into the forest. This dry-muscled old man guided our journey to see the Manawari Sago Forest, where the residents process their food.
“The place is not far [from here]. [We just need to] walk into the forest 15-20 minutes. We have to walk because the trail is small, no motorized vehicles can pass it,” said Yulius with a machete hanging from his waist, ready to chop down the branches that were blocking the road.
Yulius Awujani (56) in the Manawari Sago Forest, Sima village, Yaur district, Nabire regency, Monday (26/4/2021). The Manawari Sago Forest is the remaining sago forest in Sima Village after other customary forests turned into oil palm plantations.
The journey begins. Entering the forest area, giant trees stood up to greet us on either side of the path we were walking. Yulius, who led the line, reminded us to be careful when walking because there were many muddy swamps. One step can be serious business.
We had to walk on tree trunks that were used as a kind of bridge to pass through a swamp full of mud. If the body is unbalanced or slips, our feet can fall into the black mud which is quite deep.
Yulius, who goes back and forth to the sago forest every day, seems to be walking normally like walking on a paved road. Very calmly, he walked along the logs one by one, like Hollywood actor Joseph Gordon Levitt in the film The Walk who casually treads a rope from one tall building to another.
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“Brak… Ouch…,” the sound of mud splashing, followed by Ditto's screams breaking the silence in the forest. The dreaded thing happened. Ditto slipped while crossing. One leg fell into the swamp.
After his leg was pulled up, there were traces of mud that soaked up to the calf. As a result, Ditto's shoes and trousers were wet and smelled bad. We couldn't help but laugh at him scratching his head.
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The trail leading to the Manawari Sago Forest in Sima village, Nabire regency, Papua province, Monday (26/4/2021).
Thumb sized
We were all still sweating profusely when Yulius' steps started to slow down. Unconsciously, the journey has lasted about 20 minutes. Yulius then glanced at the villagers who were working on sago processing.
Three residents of Kampung Sima, Andreas Wayoi, together with his wife, Alfrida Maniburi, and his sister-in-law, Flora Maniburi, were busy crushing and producing wet sago starch. The sound of the tokokan (crushing the sago) dominated the area of Malawar Sago Forest, overpowering the chirping of birds and the relentless sound of insects.
With extra curiosity, I immediately approached Andreas. He was chopping wood in a sitting position. This 65-year-old man was busy working, accompanied by his three pet dogs.
"There were no sago caterpillars in it, sir?" I said curiously. Whenever you watch an adventure program on television, the most common thing in the TV program in the sago forest is eating sago caterpillars. For some people, eating caterpillars can be said to be an extreme activity.
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Andreas rose from his position. I started to feel bad. The question I asked could backfire if Andreas took it seriously. "I have it, I'll get it in a moment," he said and then headed for the sago tree trunk that had not been split.
Sago caterpillars the size of a thumb lined up irregularly as the stem was split. They seemed to be waiting in line to be eaten. Without further ado, Andreas immediately invited us to taste the fresh sago caterpillars.
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Andreas (65) shows sago caterpillars that he had just taken while cutting sago in the Manawari Sago Forest, Nabire regency, Papua province, Monday (26/4/2021).
Because I was the one who asked first, it felt like having a big responsibility to try it first. Wrapped in anxiety and curiosity, I took the sago caterpillar and ate it as quickly as possible.
Immediately after eating it, I felt as if my mouth like being filled with sago worms in all directions. I imagine the caterpillar is still alive and moving. I feel a bit disgusted because in my imagination, caterpillars are usually eaten by chickens or fish, not humans.
However, after chewing it many times, it turned out that the taste was not as bad as the initial image. Bland but there was a bit of a savory impression. The texture of the stocky caterpillar was very chewy. Fortunately, there were no strange odor from the liquid that came out when the caterpillar's body was bitten.
It tastes like chewing gum. It's delicious too.
After successfully sending the caterpillars into my stomach, it was my turn to encourage other friends to try. Starting from Ditto to Ilo, the head of the expedition, who was finally challenged. They also ate sago caterpillars.
Just like me, at first the two of them were silent for a moment. Then, they started to feel a different sensation from the caterpillar. “It tastes like chewing gum. It's delicious too,” said Ditto, who was starting to forget his wet pants and shoes.
Andreas said, this sago caterpillar is really tasty. However, it is even better if the caterpillars are grilled first. The "taste" will come out more. He likened this sago caterpillar to cooked chicken.
Flora Maniburi rests in between her work cutting sago in the Manawari Sago Forest, Sima village, Yaur district, Nabire regency, Monday (26/4/2021).
Flora Maniburi rests in between her work cutting sago in the Manawari Sago Forest, Sima village, Yaur district, Nabire regency, Monday (26/4/2021).
Sad story
When the savory taste on the palate began to fade, Andreas spoke again about sago. Caterpillars or sago is a hereditary food passed down from ancestors. They can eat sago in a chewy (boiled) or firm (grilled) texture. Not to forget, sago caterpillars are added as a source of protein.
“This sago saved us. Without this, I don't know whether the people could live or not. It was Sago that supported our ancestors and gave birth to the next generation of the Yerisiam tribe. I have been cultivating sago since I was a teenager until now I have grandchildren,” said Andreas, who has 12 children.
“Andreas said, at that time they’re ready to die as long as the sago forest was not snatched away.”
Because of that, Andreas and all the residents of Kampung Sima were very angry when the sago forest was about to be taken over. In 2017, the palm oil company intended to convert the forest that is the source of life for the residents into oil palm plantations.
All residents strongly rejected the will of the palm oil company. Together, they pushed out the company that got help from the (security) apparatus. Andreas said, at that time they’re ready to die as long as the sago forest was not snatched away.
A guard dog in the Manawari Sago Forest, Sima village, Yaur district, Nabire regency, Monday (26/4/2021).
When Andreas was fiery with his story and started to raise his voice, Yulius came to us. He wanted to take the team out of the forest because it was getting late. However, hearing his friend's story, Yulius was also interested in pouring out his heart.
“Sago has fed our ancestors since a long time ago until now. So, it is not allowed to be demolished. The sago forest is God's creation for the Yerisiam people. So if it runs out, everything will be valued with money. The Yerisiam people [tribe] don't really eat plants. If we are on the coast and in the valley, it's not too much for plants. It's just that plants can be present, but the main thing is sago," he said.
For local residents, sago is not only the main food ingredient, but also a source of daily income. Sago is taken from the forest, sold in the market. The money is enough to cover daily needs.
When the story ends, the day begins to get late. We have to go back. The day trip helps answer the questions on the mind. However, on the other hand, it also makes us nervous. Our mind was complicated processing everything that happened in the sago forest.
A resident chops sago in the Manawari Sago Forest, Sima village, Yaur district, Nabire regency, Monday (26/4/2021).
My tongue did taste the savory sago caterpillar, but my feeling was disturbed with the painful story behind it. We certainly couldn't taste the sago caterpillars if by that time the sago forest had been demolished and replaced with oil palm plantations.
Among the confusion, there is one thing that I understand: the people of Kampung Sima really enjoy consuming sago and its processed products.
That is the treasure they always have, the sago that has always been faithful to accompany from generation to generation. The long journey turned into an irreplaceable feeling.
This article was translated by Kurniawan Siswo.
