The trip across the Fly River was more dangerous than going along it. In this estuary area, the Fly River is like an ocean with violent waves.
By
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
·5 minutes read
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
A trip from Doumori to Lewada
I planned to go along the Fly River by boat belonging to local fishermen, moving from village to village, from Daru in the south of Papua New Guinea (PNG) to Kiunga in the upstream reaches of the river. In reality, this journey was much more difficult than I expected.At the first stop, Doumori, I realized that residents almost never went to any other village apart from Daru. Residents from other villages did not come to Doumori as well. After all, with the sediment and tsunami waves that hit every day, Doumori was increasingly isolated in its own world.
Nevertheless, Mama Ruth, my host, spoke as if nothing in life could trouble her.
"Son, you can stay at our house as long as you want because you are my son," she said.
The next day, Mama Ruth took the initiative to ask the villagers to help take me to Lewada, the closest village to Doumori, across the river. Even though it was just across the river, the trip took an hour or two by sailboat, because the Fly River is so wide.
The trip across the Fly River was more dangerous than going along it. In this estuary area, the Fly River is like an ocean with violent waves. Meanwhile, our sailboat was so frail and fragile, swaying in resignation in the turbulent water.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Children playing rugby on dry Fly River in the morning.
***
Upon arriving in Lewada, I was advised by local residents to stay at the home of Garry Someke, a school principal.
The 30-year-old man hurriedly ran to meet me as soon as he heard of my arrival. Initially he wanted to go fishing, but he was willing to not go to the river that day just to welcome me, whom he did not know.
We then toured the village. Lewada actually deserves to be called a small town. This village stretches from the coast to the mainland for up to 2 kilometers. At the end of the village, there was a pilot airport for missionary helicopters, but at present, it was out of sight because of the tall grass.
But the most impressive thing for me was that after days of living in the mud-soaked Doumori, I was finally able to walk nimbly on solid ground.
"You are lucky. Just a few days ago, our village was hit by a huge flood, half a meter deep. School was closed for a week and mud was everywhere,” said Garry.
This was the first flood in Lewada. Residents did not even believe that Lewada, which is located quite high on a cliff from the river, could be hit by floods. Residents even believed that in the near future, the whole village could move because Lewada is no longer livable like Doumori.
Then what about the results of development in this village?
“In the new place, we will start again from zero — zero," said Garry.
The problem of environmental damage in Lewada is actually quite severe. Sedimentation in the Fly River led to the formation of a new island 20 years ago in front of Lewada. In addition, the river has become very shallow, and when the water recedes there will be an expanse of a very wide sandy beach. Every morning, before the tide comes from the sea at 11 a.m., the river is completely dry, allowing children to play soccer and rugby at the bottom of the river.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
A replica of a boat used by residents around the Fly River, Papua New Guinea.
***
Garry is actually not a Lewada native. But he is one of the most educated people in the village, so he was entrusted to represent Lewada in negotiations with the mining company Ok Tedi, the party considered responsible for the destruction of nature in the Fly River.
Instead of hating the mining company, Garry defended it.
“The purpose of the negotiations is that they are expected to give the project to our village. Now, we have started to learn how to grow rice, thanks to Ok Tedi,” he said.
Rice planting is one of Ok Tedi\'s sustainable development projects in Lewada.
"Ok Tedi has been like a government to us, taking care of and loving us," Garry added.
The main owner of Ok Tedi was originally the Australian company BHP. In 1999, BHP was brought to justice after being accused of causing environmental damages. The mining operator admitted to dumping 80 million tons of contaminated waste into the Fly River, causing sedimentation and erosion.
"You are not suspicious that Ok Tedi could lie to you?" I asked.
"Sure. There was once a scientist from Australia named Allan Tingay who was sent to conduct research on the Fly River, and he told the residents that the river was fine,” said Gerry. "But later we found out that person was actually affiliated with Ok Tedi."
Information is scarce here. Limited information prevents residents from being aware of what is really going on in their own country.
