PNG residents are also confused about why Indonesian traders are so enthusiastic about looking for fish maw. They never ask. For them, the important thing is they get a high price, up to 10 times higher.
By
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
·5 minutes read
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Large lobsters can be easily found in Marukara, Papua New Guinea.
Together with some illegal traders from Indonesia, we prepared to dock on the small island of Marukara off the southern coast of PNG to stay a night. It turned out that the island was not empty. The men on the island shouted angrily at us in a local language that no one on our boat understood.
They were likely the tribe that rightfully owns the island. If so, it\'s dangerous. In a country that still has strong tribal customs, setting foot on customary land belonging to another tribe without permission is a serious violation that can lead to conflict. An even more terrifying possibility, they could be pirates, who are notorious for their ferocity in the Arafura Sea.
Sisi shouted in English toward them. "We are not enemies. We are from Tais. Are you from Mabadauan? In the past, our ancestors used to catch fish in this area together.”
From the direction of the island came a shout back, also in English. "Yes! We are from Mabadauan. Welcome!"
Shortly, from the island came some men full of friendly smiles, helping to lead our boat across the reef until it actually docked at Marukara beach. They even set up a bonfire and pitched a tent for us.
We were uninvited guests, but they welcomed us like close relatives. This is incredible luck. If Sisi\'s ancestors had never caught fish with their ancestors, I don\'t know what terrible fate we would have met that night.
ISTIMEWA
Agustinus Wibowo holding a lobster caught in Marukara.
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They were Mabadauan youths who came to this island once every few weeks to catch lobster. Marukara is blessed with lobster because the seabed is rocky, which is a favorite habitat for lobsters. They showed us the lobsters they had caught, around a hundred, each an arm\'s length. They will sell this catch on Saibai Island in Australia.
Faisal, the leader of the group of illegal Indonesian traders who came with us, was constantly amazed. "It’s crazy! This is King Lobster Grade A Super!” he exclaimed. “The price is Rp 150,000 per ounce. If served in a restaurant in Jakarta, the price can be Rp 1 million each.”
"I\'ve never seen a lobster with this good quality in my life," continued Abdul, his traveling companion. “In Indonesia, we ordinary people can\'t afford to eat lobster this good. But, look, here they have a lot of them!”
Faisal continued to express his appreciation for PNG\'s nature. "What a rich country. This land is truly virgin, with tremendous potential,” he said, shaking his head.
I\'ve never seen a lobster with this good quality in my life.
The Mabadauan youths grilled fish and lobster for us. As a form of gratitude, Indonesian traders also flooded them with gifts from Merauke: areca nut, army biscuits, instant noodles and rice.
The tense atmosphere on the beach a moment ago had been forgotten, turning into a party of international friendship, on the white sandy beach, in the middle of a cheerful night.
AGUSTINUS WIBOWO
Faisal with white snapper fish maw
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Faisal was grateful that we did not spend the night at the village, which was very dangerous for them, illegal border crossers. On the other hand, Marukara Island is not only safe and fun, but also provides business opportunities. The fishermen from Mabaduan offered Faisal to buy white snapper fish maw for 100 kina (Rp 500,000).
Fish maw, also known as swim bladder, is an air bladder that is part of the fish’s internal organs. These swim bladders must be taken when the fish is still fresh, and to collect it requires a special technique. The bladders are then dried in the sun to form a clear, elastic and strong membrane.
These are specific items that Indonesian traders are after. Apart from Indonesian traders, there are no other buyers who are interested in this item. Indonesian traders also taught the coastal villagers how to get the swim bladders from the fish they caught.
Actually, PNG residents are also confused about why Indonesian traders are so enthusiastic about looking for fish maw. They never ask. For them, the important thing is they get a high price, up to 10 times higher than the price of the fish itself.
The traders from Merauke will export it, mainly to Singapore and China, where the real consumers are. There, the fish maw can be processed into a strong and water-resistant adhesive, especially used in medical surgery. Fish swim bladders are also a luxury culinary food for the Chinese, believed to be efficacious for health. Fish bladders can be sold in Singapore for US$800 per kilogram.
That\'s the magic of globalization. Manufacturers do not know what they are producing. The intermediaries also do not know what is the use of the goods they buy and sell. Final consumers, thousands of kilometers away, never know where the things they consume come from.
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We slept together on the white sand of the Marukara beach. The cool night breeze brushed my face. Insects sang a lullaby of nature. On that silent late night, I could hear the young Mabadauan singing an ancestral song:
Our boat crossed the strait
We come along with the wind
Look at the sails of our boat
We sail towards Mabadauan
Their voices were like the strains of a spell that welcomed the dawn.
