The Popularity of Sumba Textiles

Rambu Adriana never thought that Sumba’s traditional Kambera Ikat textiles, which she produced, would adorn important figures in the country.

KOMPAS/WAWAN H PRABOWO

Rambu Adriana

Numerous photos of prominent figures, including celebrities and government officials, were displayed in Rambu Chiko Gallery in East Sumba. The photos are the pride and joy of the gallery’s owner, Rambu Adriana Mbelu Ana Djawa, 42. She never thought that Sumba’s traditional Kambera Ikat textiles, which she produced, would adorn important figures in the country.

On Tuesday (4/2/2021), two women, often locally called mama-mama, were cutting the roots of noni trees in the front yard of Rambu Chiko Gallery in Waingapu, East Sumba, East Nusa Tenggara. Inside the gallery, a woman was preparing and arranging strings that would be dyed later on.

The roots of noni trees are one of the natural ingredients often used to dye strings. The use of natural ingredients makes Sumba textiles manufactured by Rambu Adriana, who manages Rambu Chiko Gallery, superior to others. Rambu is the local Sumba term for women, while umbu refers to men. Chiko is short for Michiko, the name of Adriana’s daughter.

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Adriana demonstrated how to tell the difference between woven textiles, locally known as Ikat textiles, which use natural dyes and synthetic dyes, based on the textiles’ weight. Despite using the same strings, textiles that are dyed with natural ingredients tend to be heavier. Additionally, textiles that use natural dyes often have a distinctive smell of plants that grows stronger the longer the textiles are stored.

Adriana has been studying eco-friendly natural dyes since she was about 6 years old. Adriana, who comes from a family of Sumba fabric makers, first took part in dyeing and arranging strings, as well as designing patterns, when she was still a young girl. Her father used to sell the woven textiles the family made in hotels or markets. Adriana is grateful that she now has her own gallery.

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Like Indonesia’s other traditional textiles, the patterns of Sumba woven textiles are not only stunning and intricate, they also convey stories and certain meanings. The motifs of chickens and pigs, for instance, symbolize welfare. The motifs of buffalos and crocodiles characterize bravery and strength, respectively.

KOMPAS/WAWAN H PRABOWO

Rambu Adriana

Wearing Sumba woven textiles that use natural dyes also signifies high class and prominence for the wearers. Ikat textiles represent the rank and worth of those who hold important positions. In fact, traditional woven textiles are often categorized as property, similar to investments, and are commonly traded or mortgaged.

I’m not sure how much [has been donated] and what the donation has been used for.

Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Adriana employed 30 artisans, the majority of whom were homemakers. Now, that number has decreased to three. The pandemic has paralyzed her textile business, particularly as the number of tourists visiting Waingapu has nosedived as well.

Adriana entered the national textile enterprise when she participated in the Exhibition of Woven Textiles from Indonesia’s Southeastern Regions in the Bentara Budaya Jakarta cultural center in December 2013. After taking part in the exhibition, her name started to grow in popularity among textile enthusiasts in Jakarta, whose business networks are extensive.

Also read: Weaving until Departing this Life

Celebrities then started to flock to Adriana’s gallery while they were visiting the region or shooting films there. Through her meetings with various celebrities, Adriana had the opportunity to raise funds for residents of East Sumba.

Many of Adriana’s textiles are sent to Jakarta, where they are exhibited and sold in the Grand Indonesia shopping mall. The profits are then donated. “I’m not sure how much [has been donated] and what the donation has been used for,” said Adriana. This collaboration has lasted for three years.

Also read: Telling a Story with Batik Motif

At the national level, Adriana has participated in several exhibitions in Jakarta, such as the ones in the Jakarta Convention Center and the Mandiri Building. From these exhibitions, she has had numerous chances to extend her business network.

Kompas/AGUS SUSANTO

Weaving works of residents in Prailiu Traditional Village in Waingapu, East Sumba Regency, NTT, Sunday (4/28/2019).

Adriana is open to teaching university students and the general public about Sumba woven textiles. She never hesitates to share her “recipe” and dyeing techniques, which determine the quality of the textiles.

“I’m not afraid that others may copy [my work],” said Adriana. She is sure that everyone brings their own characteristics to their work.

In her gallery, the price of textiles ranges from Rp 250,000 to Rp 10 million, depending on their size. She also showed a special type of display textile, which was more than three meters in length. The display textile was being offered for Rp 30 million.

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Adriana does not require visitors to her gallery to purchase her textiles. For her, it is more than enough that her gallery provides an opportunity for the visitors to learn more about Sumba’s woven textiles. Prospective buyers, Adriana added, must know the different qualities of Sumba textiles.

In her gallery, Adriana teaches about the complex dyeing process of woven textiles, among other topics. For instance, woven textiles measuring 3 meters by 1.2 meters take up to eight months to produce. The dyeing and drying process takes the longest.

I’m not afraid that others may copy [my work]

Prospective buyers must also understand the uses of the textiles that they want to purchase. For example, textiles that are designed for display have different motifs from those designed for everyday use.

Adriana hopes that Sumba textiles will not go extinct. She has tried to incorporate fashion trends into her textiles through the designs and motifs.

To ensure continuity, she aims to build a learning center in Sumba where local children can learn about the traditional textiles. She believes that manufacturing Sumba woven textiles does not only require expertise, it also encompasses knowledge about local philosophy and traditions that are woven into the textiles.

Rambu Adriana Mbelu Ana Djawa

Born: Sumba, Jan. 15, 1979

Husband: Fransiskus K. Remi Ndau

Number of children: Three

This article was translated by Astria Z. Nabila.