The fertile coffee plantation that covers the highland of Toraja and Tana Toraja once triggered wars in South Sulawesi in 1887. The wars involved coffee traders and even some kingdoms.
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The fertile coffee plantation that covers the highland of Toraja and Tana Toraja once triggered wars in South Sulawesi in 1887. The wars involved coffee traders and even some kingdoms. The wars also marked the glory of two big coffee names, Toraja and Kalosi coffee.
Traces of wars and the arrival of Luwu and Sidenreng traders to Toraja to find coffee can be seen from several old mosques there. “The mosques were built by the traders,” said Sulaiman Miting, a Toraja traditional leader, in January 2018. Sulaiman’s forefathers were involved in the wars.
Based on Lontarak Enrekang record, the coffee wars erupted in 1887-1888 when Luwu kingdom traders wanted to monopolize coffee trade in Toraja. At that time, they began to control the Sa’dan height.
King Makale Lasokbaik, on behalf of Tallulembangna Toraja kings, sought help from the Sidenreng and Enrekang kingdoms over getting the Luwu traders to put an end to the coffee monopoly. The monopoly was not only in Toraja but also Enrekang. The monopoly ceased for 10 years and the traders, with the help of Bone kingdom soldiers led by Lamaddukelleng, returned to Toraja to bring back their monopoly in coffee trade. The monopoly was not only in Toraja but also in Enrekang.
Tallulembangna Toraja kings asked for help from Enrekang and Sidenreng kingdoms. La Tanro Arung Buttu, the 14th king of Enrekang, met Bone Kingdom soldiers and issued an announcement that they were not allowed to pass through Bambapuang in Enrekang, Wajo, Sidenreng and Luwu to bring coffee. They could only pass through Pinrang. The announcement was adhered to and became the solution. The coffee wars ended in 1890 without a victory or defeat.
In the book Sejarah Sosial Tana Toraja (The Social History of Tana Toraja, 2005), Terance W. Bigalke wrote that the wars proved coffee from Toraja and Enrekang had become a commodity with high value. Nevertheless, Sulaiman acknowledged that the history of Sulawesi coffee started in Enrekang. However, during the Dutch colonial era, the trademarking of coffee from South Sulawesi happened in Kalosi, which was a coffee market in Enrekang regency.
Its location was strategic on the main road that connected Toraja and Makassar. Coffee traders from Toraja and Enrekang usually gathered there. Aside from the Dutch, the coffee trade involved Javanese traders, and porcelain, silk and gold jewelry were bartered with for coffee. The trace of coffee was visible. Most of the houses on the main road adopted Dutch architecture. The material was wood and the houses were two-story. The doors and windows were big. The houses used to be the warehouses and residences of the traders.
There were also minarets of the old mosques. The square where the traders offered their coffee has been developed into a mosque.
Meanwhile, the Kalosi market was relocated and renamed Suddu Market. “On particular days, many traders brought coffee. Usually, there were bags of coffee, especially during harvest season. Coffee was sent to exporters in Toraja and Makassar,” said Indo Maniang, one of the big traders at Suddu Market.
Mount Latimojong
Coffee was first grown in Sulawesi on the slopes of Mount Latimojong in 1750. It was said the coffee was brought from Arabia by the Gujarat traders. But, some said the coffee was grown by the Dutch colonialists.
The belief that the coffee was from Arabia could be traced from the use of the word Kaa or Kahwa by the people of Toraja, both Tana Toraja, North Toraja and Enrekang, to refer to the Arabica coffee. Meanwhile, the robusta coffee was called Dutch coffee because they brought the seeds.
Latimojong, the highest mountain in Sulawesi, was often called Terrace of Sulawesi. It stands 3,400 meters above sea level. The mountains span from Toraja, Enrekang and Luwu to Mamasa in West Sulawesi. The topography and climate condition is believed to be the perfect ground for coffee, especially Arabica.
The Latimojong mountain area is also often called the ancient ground because it is part of the oldest island, the geological formation of which is different from other islands. The earth in Enrekang has a specific rock on its surface, which is believed to be 100 million years old. The sedimentation that formed Podsolik earth, which is rich in zinc, was considered the best soil to plant coffee.
Generally, the first coffee generation grown in the Latimojong mountains is Arabica typical. But, after the coffee suffered from coffee leaf rust, it was replaced with Robusta. Some issues, including those related to prices, forced coffee farmers to abandon the coffee business and turn to potatoes, chilies and vegetables. For some Toraja farmers, the glory of coffee was a story of the past.
This was shared by Sa’pi, 77, a coffee farmer in To’kumila, Tonga Riu village, Takalar district, North Toraja. For Sa’pi, the glory of coffee was when 40 to 300 liters of coffee beans were equal to a buffalo. “Now, 1,000 liters cannot buy a buffalo. In the past, having coffee was like owning gold. Now, coffee is abandoned,” he said.
Competition
The revival of coffee as a lifestyle of the urban people is like a breath of fresh air to the farmers. Moreover, some regional administrations compete to develop and sell the local coffee. Often, some of them claim it as specialty coffee.
Tana Toraja Regent Nicodemus Biringkanae said Toraja coffee was more popular overseas. Coffee could be sold at tourist destinations in the regions. “Who does not know about Toraja coffee? If it is combined with tourism, it would create a powerful economy,” he said.
A neighboring area, Enrekang, has dealt with issues. Coffee business players, with the support of the regency administration, has struggled to market Kalosi coffee. They feel they are under the shadow of Toraja coffee. “In fact, big companies in Toraja take coffee from here [Enrekang],” said Rahim Razak, a coffee enthusiast in Enrekang.
In a positive sense, the coffee wars remain in Sulawesi. However, the wars are expected to boost enthusiasm to improve product quality. If the marketing expands, it will bring prosperity to the farmers.