Visitors pass through a stone arch that stands on the banks of the Nif River in Seram Bagian Timur regency, Maluku, in September. The site is a popular tourist attraction for local residents, although it is difficult to access and a lack of promotion means it is largely unknown among people outside the area.
The smell of sulfur wafted through the air as I walked in Nif River in Eastern Seram regency, Maluku. The water was not as cold as it was where I took my first dip 700 meters back. The beautiful cliff waiting for me ahead piqued my curiosity.
My steps were hindered by scattered black stones along the river, where water only flowed on one side. Fortunately, the current was not too heavy and the water was only 50 centimeters deep. The crystal clear water made it easy for me to hop between submerged stones.
When I went there in September, the water flow rate of the river located in Nif hamlet, Dawang village, Teluk Waru district, Eastern Seram regency, Maluku, was decreasing as the upstream area was already deforested. In spite of this, logging persists. The roar of woodcutters could be heard amid the rippling sounds of water.
The journey took 35 minutes in a drizzle that soon turned into heavy rain. Without any umbrellas or jackets, we pushed through. The rain was nothing in the face of our determination to reach the cliff 300 meters ahead. In the end, the rain stopped.
The stinging smell of sulfur filled the air and stopped us around a dozen meters from the foot of the cliff. From far away, the cliff seemed featureless. From up close, we could observe its rough surface much better.
There was a cave on one side. There was also a separate cliff that looked like a pyramid. It stood 20 meters tall with a diameter of around seven meters. Due to its shape, some call it a natural tower. Its pyramid form is the result of a natural process that started hundreds of thousands – or even millions – of years ago.
The hikers gasped in awe. They then took out their cameras and phones to take pictures of the scenery. Selfies, of course, were also taken.
Hot water spring
On the other side, there was some sort of an entryway to a set of cliffs after crossing a body of water 50 centimeters deep and four meters wide. The cliff’s wall felt like limestone to the touch.
The hikers took pictures and selfies at the entryway. The spot within the line of caves and in front of the green hills and blue skies is popular for taking pictures and selfies. On the other side of the entryway, there are several water springs with billowing hot steam.
“A lecturer from Ambon said the temperature was 95 degrees Celsius. You put an egg here and it’ll be done in five minutes,” said Nif hamlet chief Jen Tueka, 47, who accompanied Kompas and other journalists in the media team of Tour de Moluccas, an international bike race organized by the Maluku provincial administration.
Jen, who often accompanies travelers and researchers to the location, said most visitors took pictures at the line of cliffs. The split cliff that forms a natural pyramid was among the pictures used in Tour de Moluccas’ promotional materials.
Some 200 meters from the cliff, there was a pool of warm water formed in the middle of Nif River. Soaking in the warm water becomes some kind of a “bonus” for visitors after the journey to reach the place.
The jets of water mixed with sulfur is believed to be capable of curing various skin illnesses. This is why residents of Eastern Seram regency capital Bula often visit the area, located just eight kilometers from the town.
Teluk Waru district head Tutiek Menyulu said travelers were still reluctant to visit the location due to the poor access road. From the main road, travelers need to walk on a dirt road for four kilometers and traverse a rocky path and the river for 400 meters. The journey continues with walking in the river for more or less one kilometer.
Villagers have urged the local tourism agency to include Nif’s limestone cliff and hot water spring in the list of tourist destinations.
However, there is still some work for the local administration to do. Apart from improving the access road, there are still neglected oil wells left from the colonial era that need to be cleaned up as they still secrete crude oil mixed with water.
Promotion
Eastern Seram regent A Mukti Keliobas said he had asked the tourism agency to create a database of all local tourist destinations. At a dinner with Tour de Moluccas cyclists on Sept. 19, Mukti introduced a number of local tourist destinations in a short video.
“Give our regards to your families, friends and acquaintances in your respective countries. We will always wait for you to come here,” Mukti said.
Cyclists from 20 Asian and European countries participated in the tourism-themed bike race.
Mukti said he realized that transportation access from Maluku provincial capital Ambon to Bula was among the problems in local tourism development. Currently, flights to the area are served with 40-seat ATR-42 planes three times a week. The flight from Ambon to Bula takes 45 minutes.
The plan is to extend Kufar airport’s runway in Bula from 1,200 meters to 1,500 meters in 2018. This will enable larger and more frequent planes to land in the town.
It will also be easier for travelers to journey to Eastern Seram beyond the charming cliff and hot water spring in Nif.
